The old community belongs to Nanto City, Toyama Prefecture, and sits quietly surrounded by mountains. At first sight, it may look just like any other rural underpopulated communities, but Inami is known for Japan's leading woodcarving techniques, and is very much alive.
The unique way to learn about and appreciate its woodcarvings is the "night museum tour "at Zuisen-ji Temple. Guided by Mr. Daichi Maekawa, one of the top woodcarving artists in town, we visited temple at dusk, after the temple had closed its doors to visitors.
The temple was lit for the tour, highlighting only the woodcarvings often placed higher than human's height. Inami's woodcarving history started when the temple was burned down by a fire in 1762. Skilled woodcarvers were sent from Kyoto to help restore the temple, and four local carpenters learned the woodcarving techniques from them. Several years later, the Kyoto woodcarvers had to return home when Kyoto's Higashi Hongan-ji Temple was also destroyed by fire. The restoration work of Zuisen-ji Temple was carried on by the local carpenters, or skilled woodcarvers by then, and the techniques have been handed down and brushed up over generations. Now the district has over 200 woodcarvers and they are considered to be at the top of Japan's woodcarving industry.
I visited countless temples in my life, both for sighteseeing and funerals, but I admit I had never paid so much attention to woodcarvings alone when visiting temples. Mr. Maekawa explained the differences of across the ages, such as depth and skill levels. The details of woodcarvings can be better observed when they are lit in darkness than in daylight. It was late November and already very cold at night, but the dry and clear autumn/winter air is ideal for the tour purposes.
The program is part of the initiative to promote Inami as a destination. The small town has some interesting places, such as a lodging offering artisan apprenticeship experiences, and an aroma workshop where you can create your original aroma oil.
I had a chance to visit Mr. Maekawa's family studio. His father is also a woodcarver and was working quietly there. Unlike many traditional artisans who start in teens, Mr. Maekawa traveled and worked in Europe after graduating university, then returned home before he turned 30 to be a woodcarver. His works include ornamental carvings that blends well with contemporary living.
Young people choose to come to Inami for apprenticeship and to work as woodcarvers here. It means they can make living being Inami's woodcarvers, and that the industry is ongoing.
Access to Inami is possible by train and bus from Toyama Station (and also from Kanazawa,) but going by car is easier and faster.
Inami is charmingly low-key and welcoming.