Sunday, August 27, 2023

Himeji Castle

If you ask one castle in Japan that is the most elegant and dignified, many people would think of Himeji Castle.  It was one of Japan's first two UNESCO World Heritage sites registered in 1993 (the other one was Horyu-ji Temple in Nara.)


The seven-storey keep (including one floor below ground) that we see today was built in 1609, and miraculously survived the bombings during WW2.  Through large-scale rennovations every few decades, the "white egret" castle maintains the unparalleled beauty and durability.

The white plastered walls look so bright outside that you may be surprised at the subdued, temple-like wooden interior.  You can walk up the steep stairs to the top floor, from where you can command a view of Himeji City just like the ancient lords did.

The most close-up photo opportunity comes when you finish the visit of the main keep. 

There is more than the main keep.  The site presents the remains of the entire fort structure.  It is suggested that you allocate two to three hours if you plan to cover the whole site.  If you visit only the main keep, a little over one hour may do.  Himeji tends to be less crowded than other major tourist destinations such as Kyoto or Hiroshima, and is just as accessible by shinkansen train. 


Thursday, May 4, 2023

Moss Garden at Hakone Museum of Art

Hakone offers not only abundant hot spring but also numerous art museums.  Exhibited art includes Japanese ukiyoe prints, paintings, sculptures, European impressionist, traditional crafts, contemporary and more.  

If you have seen enough of paintings and sculptures, you may still appreciate Hakone Museum of Art, not necessarily for the indoor exhibits but for the garden Shinsenkyo.  


Shinsenkyo, meaning the land of the divine and immortal, is a constellation of several landscape gardens and traditional architectures. Though the architectures are not open to public, you can stroll along the paths throughout the gardens.   

After walking through the rock garden, you will come to the moss garden. The ground is covered with 130 different kinds of moss (though it is hard to tell one from another!)  With over 200 maple trees, the garden presents a beautiful scenery of fresh green in spring, and colored leaves in autumn.  


It was quiet and peaceful in Shinsenkyo on a day in late April.  A walk in the moss-and-maple forest was a refreshing experience. 



Tuesday, March 14, 2023

Helicopter cruise to Mt. Fuji

If you are staying in Tokyo and wish to go to Mt. Fuji but have only a few hours, a helicopter cruise is an answer.  Of course, even if you have an entire day, or if you have been to Mt. Fuji before by ground, the option is worth a try.  

I recently had a chance to join a two-hour heli cruise departing Tokyo Heliport, cruising over the cities and suburbs, then around Mt. Fuji, and coming back along the coastline.  

Having lived in Tokyo for decades, I had never seen the metropolis from the perspective.  It looks so vast and flat, and continuing without an end.  Still, unlike from an airplane, I am close enough to recognize familiar places.

And Mt. Fuji...  You would never feel so close.  

The helicopter circled around the mountain so that we could see it from every angle.  Such a luxury.    

Then over Lake Ashi in Hakone.  

It was interesting to see not only the landmarks but the whole topography.  

Enoshima Island and Mt. Fuji.  I had never thought of the combination in one photo....  

Want to fly? 


Friday, June 10, 2022

Sengan-en in Kagoshima

Kagoshima is probably best known for Sakurajima, but Sengan-en offers a lot more than just a view of the volcano.  

Built in 1658, the former residence of Shimazu clan (the lords of Satsuma Domain) boasts an extensive Japanese garden and a close-up view of Sakurajima.  


Even if you think you have seen enough gardens around Japan, Sengan-en is unique, dynamic and well worth a visit.  

Water meanders through the garden.  Kagoshima is located at the southern end of Kyushu (excluding smaller islands further south such as Amami and Okinawa.)  Its lush green presents some tropical atmosphere (at least to someone from Tokyo like myself.)   For a moment you may feel as if you were deep in a valley.  


Chinese influence can be seen such as the large characters (11 meters high) carved into the rock cliff.   I had never seen anything like it.   


The bamboo grove started from two stalks imported from China through Ryukyu (Okinawa) in the 18th century.   


Sengan-en also showcases the prescience of Shimazu Nariakira, the 11th lord of Satsuma Domain.  He spearheaded industrial modernization in the mid-19th century in order to strengthen military power and counter threat by the West.  The remains of reverberatory furnace and adjacent Shoko Shuseikan Museum (closed though to the end of October 2024)  form a part of the UNESCO World Heritage "Sites of Meiji Industrial Revolution."  


After visiting the garden, you can walk to Satsuma Kiriko crystal glass factory next door.  The Satsuma Kiriko was one of the trades launched by Nariakira but was discontinued after his death.  Then it was reestablished by the current Shimazu family in the 1980's.  You can see how the high-quality glassware is handmade by artisans today.  




Monday, November 8, 2021

Time Travel to Kawagoe

Time seems to have stopped in Kawagoe.  It is an old castle town in the current Saitama Prefecture and is less than an hour train ride from Tokyo.  


The main street is lined with magnificent two-storied historical buildings.  Without modern skyscrapers in sight, it even looks like a perfect movie set, but the town is alive.    

Kawagoe flourished as a commercial town during the Meiji Era.  After the much of the town was destroyed by a fire in 1889, they built fire-proof "kura-zukuri" (warehouse style) houses which remain until today.  The symbolic wooden bell tower was also rebuilt then.  It was fortunate and miraculous that the town survived the war without major bombing.  


You will find many shops along the street selling sweets and snacks made of sweet potato, a local specialty.  


The Honmaru Goten (main hall) of Kawagoe Castle still remains on the original site.  It is the only honmaru goten building remains in Eastern Japan.  


Kawagoe Shrine is also worth a stop.  There are various types of omikuji (fortune slips) sold.  The fishing one is fun and the most popular.  


It is a picturesque town easily accessible from Tokyo.  





Sunday, October 24, 2021

Photogenic Kamakura

Kamakura is a popular daytrip destination for both locals and tourists.  It is just a little over an hour train ride from Tokyo, yet it presents a completely different scenery. 

Surrounded by mountains and facing the ocean, Kamakura was chosen as the the seat of the samurai government at the end of the 12th century and so remained for 140 years.  Later it was developed as a sophisticated resort and residential town and has been loved by intellectuals.  

Kamakura has too many sites to cover, so let's mention just a few photogenic spots.  

1.  Hokoku-ji Temple 

The zen temple was established in 1334 and is known for its beautiful bamboo forest which has 2,000 Moso bamboos.  You can walk through the garden, and have matcha green tea at the tea shop facing the forest.  A tranquil, relaxing moment.  The bamboos remain green all through the year.  

2.  Sugimoto-dera Temple  

Built in 734, Kamakura's oldest temple has subdued colors but but presents magnificent atmosphere.  

The Nioh statues are said to be the works of Unkei.  

The iconic moss stairs leading to the main building are not in use anymore (because it is obviously slippery!)  You can take stars that run parallel to them.  

The thatched main building is awesome.  


3.  Sasuke Inari Shrine

The shrine sits quietly in a residential area.  The tunnel of red torii gates leads up to the main shrine.  

The precinct is filled with numerous figurines of white fox, which are believed to be the God's messengers.  

It is said that the Gods of the shrine bring mercy to people who pray for career success, good matchmaking, and their pets' happiness.  Wide-ranged benefits.  


Kamakura is especially popular in the seasons of cherry blossoms (spring) and autumn colors, but it has beauty in every season.  If you have a free day in Tokyo, a short excursion is worthwhile.  


Saturday, October 16, 2021

Sawanoi - A Sake Brewery in Tokyo

Tokyo may not be among Japan's top sake producing regions, but it does have several sake breweries in the suburbs that are accessible from the center of the metropolis.    

One of them, Sawanoi is in the Okutama area and sits along Tama River.  The sake brewer was established in 1702, nearly 320 years ago.  It has a longer history than many Champagne maisons in France! 

If you walk from the nearby Sawai Station, you will notice a slight sweet aroma of malt in the air.  Your journey into the sake world has already begun. 

The Sawanoi Garden complex includes restaurants, shops and a tasting bar, but what is likely to get your attention first is the clear water stream down the slope.  Good sake requires good water.  At this privileged location, you can soak in the beautiful scenery of the river surrounded by mountains, and can even enjoy a hike along the trail.  

The sakagura (sake factory) tour is provided free of charge and requires pre-booking as of Oct. 2021.  The guide leads a small group into the factory.  There are no windows that would let sunlight in, and it feels a little cooler than outside. You may recall wine or Champagne cellars.   Some huge tanks hold over 8,000 litters of sake each.  

The mother water is taken not direct from the ample river water but from the natural well deep inside a cave.   Slowly coming out through the thick ancient bedrock, the spring water is rich in minerals.  

Though most sake is sold and consumed fresh, here they also have aged sake.  Some are over 20 years old.  The vintage sake is amber colored and has a unique aroma.  


Visit the tasting bar after the tour.  They serve 10 different kinds of sake including their signature daiginjo "Koh" and the aged "Kuramori" (selection may change.)   


It takes only 1.5 hours of train ride from central Tokyo.   A pleasant day trip to fully enjoy both nature and good drink.