Inami - A Community of Woodcarving

The old community belongs to Nanto City, Toyama Prefecture, and sits quietly surrounded by mountains.  At first sight, it may look just like any other rural underpopulated communities, but Inami is known for Japan's leading woodcarving techniques, and is very much alive.  

The unique way to learn about and appreciate its woodcarvings is the "night museum tour "at Zuisen-ji Temple.    Guided by Mr. Daichi Maekawa, one of the top woodcarving artists in town, we visited temple at dusk, after the temple had closed its doors to visitors. 

The temple was lit for the tour, highlighting only the woodcarvings often placed higher than human's height.   Inami's woodcarving history started when the temple was burned down by a fire in 1762.  Skilled woodcarvers were sent from Kyoto to help restore the temple, and four local carpenters learned the woodcarving techniques from them.  Several years later, the Kyoto woodcarvers had to return home when Kyoto's Higashi Hongan-ji Temple was also destroyed by fire.    The restoration work of Zuisen-ji Temple was carried on by the local carpenters, or skilled woodcarvers by then, and the techniques have been handed down and brushed up over generations.  Now the district has over 200 woodcarvers and they are considered to be at the top of Japan's woodcarving industry.  

I visited countless temples in my life, both for sighteseeing and funerals, but I admit I had never paid so much attention to woodcarvings alone when visiting temples.   Mr. Maekawa explained the differences of across the ages, such as depth and skill levels.  The details of woodcarvings can be better observed when they are lit in darkness than in daylight.  It was late November and already very cold at night, but the dry and clear autumn/winter air is ideal for the tour purposes.  

The program is part of the initiative to promote Inami as a destination.  The small town has some interesting places, such as a lodging offering artisan apprenticeship experiences, and an aroma workshop where you can create your original aroma oil.  

I had a chance to visit Mr. Maekawa's family studio.  His father is also a woodcarver and was working quietly there.  Unlike many traditional artisans who start in teens, Mr.  Maekawa traveled and worked in Europe after graduating university, then returned home before he turned 30 to be a woodcarver.  His works include ornamental carvings that blends well with contemporary living.  

Young people choose to come to Inami for apprenticeship and to work as woodcarvers here.  It means they can make living being Inami's woodcarvers, and that the industry is ongoing.  

Access to Inami is possible by train and bus from Toyama Station (and also from Kanazawa,) but going by car is easier and faster.  

Inami is charmingly low-key and welcoming.   

Himeji Castle by Night

Himeji Castle shines even at night.  After the gates are closed in the evening, the castle is lit in different colors so that it can be appreciated from the distance.  The lighting is supervised by the leading lighting designer Motoko Ishii.  

Yes, it is beautiful to see from afar... but even better up close.  

Though it may not be known to many, the castle is avaialble for private hire after-hours.  Your group can visit the castle exclusively with the escort of expert guides.

Not just the view of the castle, but the view of the city from the top floor of the castle is anothre highlight.  

(The photos were taken in January 2024.  Current lighting may look different.)  

Himeji Castle

If you ask one castle in Japan that is the most elegant and dignified, many people would think of Himeji Castle.  It was one of Japan's first two UNESCO World Heritage sites registered in 1993 (the other one was Horyu-ji Temple in Nara.)

The seven-storey keep (including one floor below ground) that we see today was built in 1609, and miraculously survived the bombings during WW2.  Through large-scale rennovations every few decades, the "white egret" castle maintains the unparalleled beauty and durability.

The white plastered walls look so bright outside that you may be surprised at the subdued, temple-like wooden interior.  You can walk up the steep stairs to the top floor, from where you can command a view of Himeji City just like the ancient lords did.

The most close-up photo opportunity comes when you finish the visit of the main keep. 

There is more than the main keep.  The site presents the remains of the entire fort structure.  It is suggested that you allocate two to three hours if you plan to cover the whole site.  If you visit only the main keep, a little over one hour may do.  Himeji tends to be less crowded than other major tourist destinations such as Kyoto or Hiroshima, and is just as accessible by shinkansen train. 

Moss Garden at Hakone Museum of Art

Hakone offers not only abundant hot spring but also numerous art museums.  Exhibited art includes Japanese ukiyoe prints, paintings, sculptures, European impressionist, traditional crafts, contemporary and more.  

If you have seen enough of paintings and sculptures, you may still appreciate Hakone Museum of Art, not necessarily for the indoor exhibits but for the garden Shinsenkyo.  

Shinsenkyo, meaning the land of the divine and immortal, is a constellation of several landscape gardens and traditional architectures. Though the architectures are not open to public, you can stroll along the paths throughout the gardens.   

After walking through the rock garden, you will come to the moss garden. The ground is covered with 130 different kinds of moss (though it is hard to tell one from another!)  With over 200 maple trees, the garden presents a beautiful scenery of fresh green in spring, and colored leaves in autumn.  

It was quiet and peaceful in Shinsenkyo on a day in late April.  A walk in the moss-and-maple forest was a refreshing experience. 

Helicopter cruise to Mt. Fuji

If you are staying in Tokyo and wish to go to Mt. Fuji but have only a few hours, a helicopter cruise is an answer.  Of course, even if you have an entire day, or if you have been to Mt. Fuji before by ground, the option is worth a try.  

I recently had a chance to join a two-hour heli cruise departing Tokyo Heliport, cruising over the cities and suburbs, then around Mt. Fuji, and coming back along the coastline.  

Having lived in Tokyo for decades, I had never seen the metropolis from the perspective.  It looks so vast and flat, and continuing without an end.  Still, unlike from an airplane, I am close enough to recognize familiar places.

And Mt. Fuji...  You would never feel so close.  

The helicopter circled around the mountain so that we could see it from every angle.  Such a luxury.    

Then over Lake Ashi in Hakone.  

It was interesting to see not only the landmarks but the whole topography.  

Enoshima Island and Mt. Fuji.  I had never thought of the combination in one photo....  

Want to fly? 

Sengan-en in Kagoshima

Kagoshima is probably best known for Sakurajima, but Sengan-en offers a lot more than just a view of the volcano.  

Built in 1658, the former residence of Shimazu clan (the lords of Satsuma Domain) boasts an extensive Japanese garden and a close-up view of Sakurajima.  

Even if you think you have seen enough gardens around Japan, Sengan-en is unique, dynamic and well worth a visit.  

Water meanders through the garden.  Kagoshima is located at the southern end of Kyushu (excluding smaller islands further south such as Amami and Okinawa.)  Its lush green presents some tropical atmosphere (at least to someone from Tokyo like myself.)   For a moment you may feel as if you were deep in a valley.  

Chinese influence can be seen such as the large characters (11 meters high) carved into the rock cliff.   I had never seen anything like it.   

The bamboo grove started from two stalks imported from China through Ryukyu (Okinawa) in the 18th century.   

Sengan-en also showcases the prescience of Shimazu Nariakira, the 11th lord of Satsuma Domain.  He spearheaded industrial modernization in the mid-19th century in order to strengthen military power and counter threat by the West.  The remains of reverberatory furnace and adjacent Shoko Shuseikan Museum (closed though to the end of October 2024)  form a part of the UNESCO World Heritage "Sites of Meiji Industrial Revolution."  

After visiting the garden, you can walk to Satsuma Kiriko crystal glass factory next door.  The Satsuma Kiriko was one of the trades launched by Nariakira but was discontinued after his death.  Then it was reestablished by the current Shimazu family in the 1980's.  You can see how the high-quality glassware is handmade by artisans today.  

Time Travel to Kawagoe

Time seems to have stopped in Kawagoe.  It is an old castle town in the current Saitama Prefecture and is less than an hour train ride from Tokyo.  

The main street is lined with magnificent two-storied historical buildings.  Without modern skyscrapers in sight, it even looks like a perfect movie set, but the town is alive.    

Kawagoe flourished as a commercial town during the Meiji Era.  After the much of the town was destroyed by a fire in 1889, they built fire-proof "kura-zukuri" (warehouse style) houses which remain until today.  The symbolic wooden bell tower was also rebuilt then.  It was fortunate and miraculous that the town survived the war without major bombing.  

You will find many shops along the street selling sweets and snacks made of sweet potato, a local specialty.  

The Honmaru Goten (main hall) of Kawagoe Castle still remains on the original site.  It is the only honmaru goten building remains in Eastern Japan.  

Kawagoe Shrine is also worth a stop.  There are various types of omikuji (fortune slips) sold.  The fishing one is fun and the most popular.  

It is a picturesque town easily accessible from Tokyo.